July 20, 2003

Can't sandblast a car that is together, the sand will never come out of the hidden crevasses.

So we chemically strip it, then we use metal prep (acid) to rid the metal of rust.

The white is the chemical reaction when the acid dries (white sticky crust).

Some of the areas you still have to use a grinder or wire wheel if the rust is more than just surface.

The nooks and crannies are difficult, but it has to be clean before primer.

The arrow points to dark metal which still has a rusty surface, this must be removed.

Yes, this is very time consuming, considering it takes two or three days to prepare the metal for primer with metal prep. Sandblasting would take about four hours.

All the little spots have to be cleaned.

The apron on the right still needs a little bodywork before primer.

The white surface has to be sanded with 150 grit before priming.

After the chassis is primed, you can see where I am grinding the very rough inner panels.

After the panels are sanded with 36 grit, I will skin the surfaces with 3/4 oz matt to give it the original look. This will also strengthen the panels.

This is the window frame. The finish work was never real good so we stripped the paint off, did the bodywork (fill pinholes), and will prime.

The blue color is the filler, filling the negative voids in the original part.

The cockpit apron is now being repaired where all the cracks are.

Jack is now doing the bodywork after all the repairs have been made.

These are the side pods that have been re skinned. They will be painted last, satin black.

These are the replacement, lower center, chassis strengtheners. These parts always get the floor jack and they can't take it. When they are bent up into the engine and transmission, the shifter sometimes will not work properly because of friction between the two parts.

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